Rione Reflection

The neighborhood of Sant’ Estachio is named after the beloved Saint Eustace and the church that was dedicated to him.  The church is located in the center of the neighborhood.   The church’s medieval name is Regio Sancti Eustachii et Vinee Tedemarii.

The history behind the coat of arms is very interesting, it shows Saint Eustachius standing between the horns of a stag.  The history involves a soldier named Placidus hunting for a stag, once he saw one her aimed his bow and arrow, however when he did this, a bright cross appeared between his horns.  Once this happened the soldier and his family decided to become Christians.  He eventually changed his name to Eustachius, but he unfortunately was incarcerated and martyred. 

Walking through the neighborhood you notice clothing shops and small shops that fix wooden chairs and tables.  It is a quant neighborhood filled with families and small businesses.   The neighborhood is a long and thin area, bordering the famous historical landmarks including the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and Sant'Andrea della Valle.  In the past the rione inclosed many important public buildings, however none of them have survived.  Just like some areas of Rome, the entire district was forced to be rebuilt in the Middle Ages.  Since then it has been known to be a family neighborhood for lower and middle class families.  Today it seems to be a higher –end neighborhood.  

The center of the rione is the square, St. Eustachius, which is where the church stands.  Consequently the spot where the church was constructed is said to be where the soldier (Placidus or Eustachius) was martyred.  The church’s interior is beautiful, it’s a smaller church than many I have seen in Rome and a little run down, but its intricate chapels are beautifully constructed.  To add to its grandeur a magnificent organ was being played as we entered.  Included in the square is the café St. Eustachio Il Cafe is built.  Considering Romans’ love for café, all romans and visters alike should try this café.  Sant’Eustachio Il Cafe is known as one of the best places to get coffee in Rome. The café was packed of locals, tourists, businessmen, and youth.  All mixed into one small café to get “the best coffee”.   Brittany and I have now had the best and strongest coffee in Rome, and soon the entire class will be able to sample this exquisite café at our rione tour. 

While the neighborhood borders major historical landmarks, it cuts an important piazza in half, Piazza della Rotonda, the northern part of the piazza, which is the area that belongs to the rione, has a beautiful fountain and Egyptian obelisk.  It is said that the obelisk was first in the church of San Macuto and is originally from the Temple of Isis.  Just like the square of St. Eustachio, the piazza della Rotonda is filled with cafes, bars, and once had been backed with taverns and inns which in the opinion of a Roman is absurd.  Because of these businesses in the piazza, in 1822 “pope Pius VI had them demolished, restoring the original beauty of the site, as remembered by a large plaque in Latin, which reads as follows:

POPE PIUS VII IN THE 23^RD YEAR OF HIS REIGN

RECLAIMED FROM THE DISLIKED UGLINESS

THE AREA IN FRONT OF M. AGRIPPA'S PANTHEON

OCCUPIED BY DISGRACEFUL TAVERNS

BY MEANS OF A MOST WISE DEMOLITION

AND ORDERED TO LEAVE THE VIEW FREE IN A OPEN PLACE

            The neighborhood once had Rome’s first University in the 1400’s called La Sapienza (the Knowledge).  Which is no longer there because it was moved once there too many students attending.  The university was moved to a more central position on the outskirts of Rome.  A church stands where the university once was houses Rome’s most beautiful lanterns, “Sant'Ivo, one of Borromini's masterpieces, is famous for having the most elegant lantern among the city's churches: a fantastic Baroque creation whose top part ends with a very ornate spiral, towering over the whole district, and visible from the surrounding streets”.   Like the majority of Rome, the neighborhood consists of multiple churches.  The architects and artists involved in creating these basilicas are historically famous. 

            Interestingly enough one of the churches includes, Sant'Andrea della Valle, which has the second largest dome when compared to St. Peter’s, and is located very near to the Campo di Fiori.  On the left side of the church is one of Rome’s talking statues named the Abbot Louis. Since the early 16^th century talking statues would have posters attached to them sometime during the night.  Because the pope had an “iron fist” and those in power would sometimes need to be reminded of their duty, “these statues are the means by which Rome has always opposed arrogance and corruption of the ruling class with great sense of humour”.  These posters would have poems, stories, jokes, and even messages directly to the pope.  As the times have changed, silence has come over Rome’s talking statues, except for one named Pasquino which is located in a small square at the back of Piazza Navona.  Lets go see what he has to say!!